Our accommodation for one night in Tafí del Valle was one of the best. The Hostel Nomade has quite modest facilities and we have stayed in a shared room but all the atmosphere around it is great. It is located away from the centre of the town but close enough. Stepping out of it you can see all the surrounding mountains of the valley. Inside, Tony the owner who lives with his wife and at least 2 kids just next doors, makes you feel welcomed. Dinner was included which is one rare feature for any hostel. While we were waiting, a DVD from Beatles concerts was playing on an old TV just next to a flag with the most famous photo of Che Guevara surrounded by all the flags of America Latina.
Dinner was not only great, but it was a genuine moment of familiarity, between us, the other guests and Tony’s family. As I said, these kind of moments are difficult to get in most of hostels. That’s where we’ve meet Brice, that unfortunately was heading south in a different direction (by the way, you can visit his blog here: 10 mois en Amérique du Sud). And our new Argentinean friends Sofia and Anahí.
Dinner was not only great, but it was a genuine moment of familiarity, between us, the other guests and Tony’s family. As I said, these kind of moments are difficult to get in most of hostels. That’s where we’ve meet Brice, that unfortunately was heading south in a different direction (by the way, you can visit his blog here: 10 mois en Amérique du Sud). And our new Argentinean friends Sofia and Anahí.
The next day we went together on a full day trip through the Valles Calchaquíes with a very particular guide. Leopoldo was a retired physical education teacher, the reason why some people still called him “Profe” (professor means teacher) Evan though he had a particular way to address young people like us, specially girls, he was a nice guide who loved to talk. The journey started early and slowly as we drove uphill packed on the back of his small van. We stopped frequently not only to see some notorious places but also because the car had to rest from such stiff roads.
We have learned a lot about the indigenous people (pueblos originarios) and its history, about the local climate and the valley culture and economy. As we drove through, the number of cactus seemed to be increasing until we have reached a gigantic one. “El Abuelito” (the “Grandpa”) was over 10m high and had multiple “arms”, which is an indication of years. “El Abuelito” is over a thousand years old!
We have learned a lot about the indigenous people (pueblos originarios) and its history, about the local climate and the valley culture and economy. As we drove through, the number of cactus seemed to be increasing until we have reached a gigantic one. “El Abuelito” (the “Grandpa”) was over 10m high and had multiple “arms”, which is an indication of years. “El Abuelito” is over a thousand years old!
In Amaicha del Valle we visited a Virgin Mary carved on a 3 metre wood piece. When the artist, a german named Ludwig Schumacher, once started his art piece, the local population thought he was odd and crazy. But since long they have embraced the Virgin has their own gift from God. It is one of the most original Christian figures that I have ever seen.
We also took a peek to the Pachamama Museum. Pachamama is the mother earth or the fertility goddess, veneered by the American indigenous of the Andes and still strongly present in the culture of the region. It may feel odd to speak about such different believes on the same paragraph, but we’ve just started to realized that many people nowadays embraced both new religions, such as Christianity, and old beliefs, such as the cult to the Pachamama.
We also took a peek to the Pachamama Museum. Pachamama is the mother earth or the fertility goddess, veneered by the American indigenous of the Andes and still strongly present in the culture of the region. It may feel odd to speak about such different believes on the same paragraph, but we’ve just started to realized that many people nowadays embraced both new religions, such as Christianity, and old beliefs, such as the cult to the Pachamama.
One of the highlights of the trip was the Quilmes ruins. It is considered the most important and greatest archaeological site of Argentina and it is comparable to Machu Pichu in Peru. Quilmes dates back to 850 A.D. and it was inhabited by the Quilmes people. On his height it is estimated that about 5000 people lived there. The Quilmes people and city were later absorbed by the Inca empire although they fought against it and could maintain their own culture and languages. It was only with the Spanish conquest that the sad story of Quilmes reached its end. The city was conquered only in 1667 and its people were forced to march to Buenos Aires. Most of them never reached the city and the ones who have, settled in a nearby place that is called today Quilmes.
From the ruins only 10% has been excavated. Looking it from above, your imagination let you know how great and impressive this ancient city was. It is also sad to think how abrupt its and his people ended.
From the ruins only 10% has been excavated. Looking it from above, your imagination let you know how great and impressive this ancient city was. It is also sad to think how abrupt its and his people ended.
Heading in the direction of Cafayate we drove through the famous Ruta 40, the longest road in Argentina that connects Rio Gallegos in the Souto to La Quiaca in the north. Its 5000km remind us how big is Argentina. The Ruta 40 is also one of the longest road in the world, along the Road 66 in the USA and the Stuart Highway in Australia (without counting with the unofficial Panamerican Highway). After a quick stop to eat the most delicious empanadas we have eaten so far, we also made a quick stop in Cafayate to visit one of the numerous vineyards on the region. The red wines are pretty awful, but the local speciality, the Torrentés was decent.
Our last highlight and one of the best of the day-trip was the Quebrada de Cafayate or Quebrada de las Conchas. The second name, “conchas” (meaning shells), is due to the fact that one can find several shells in this area, which indicates that before the mountains formation this region was part of the sea. “Quebrada” is the equivalent of defile, which means a narrow pass or gorge between mountains.
The rock formations and its colours were astonishing specially on the sunset golden light. It made a perfect ending for this tour.
The rock formations and its colours were astonishing specially on the sunset golden light. It made a perfect ending for this tour.